Here's a shot of one of my Rudder cable
fairings that I made from the directions on Sam
Buchanan's page. The gray stuff is 3M structural Epoxy. When the time comes I will
sand it off and dress the joint up so it looks nice.
Here is my fuselage sitting upside down,
ready for the gear. I was going to use saw horses, but they seemed to wobbly to rest the
fuselage on, so I made up the supports shown. They are very sturdy, and were very fast and
easy to make.
My outboard wear plates extend underneath
the skin that comes installed on the quickbuild kits. I'll have to drill a hole in the
skin so I can drill that 3/8 hole in the wear plate. The gear intersection fairing will
cover the hole up.
This is the fuse with the gear clamped in
place and aligned, but it turns out this method wouldn't work for me. I still don't know
why, but I had an obvious "toe out". After consulting with a tech counciler I
used the method shown below.
Two very straight squares were used (any
straightedge would work, this is what I had on hand). The object is to have a nuetral
track, with the gear legs parallel and both the same distance from the tailwheel. By
measureing between the squares at the front and rear, and measuring from the strings to
the tailwheel, I got the gear on straight. Make sure you use good, sharp bits to drill
them, that steel is tough! I used brad point bits, similar to the "bullet" bits.
My Bart Lalonde IO-360 B1B. 10.1:1 pistons,
new cylinders, Lightspeed Ignition and Slick Mag, Bendix FI.
Here's a shot of one of my Rudder cable
fairings that I made from the directions on 
Here is my fuselage sitting upside down,
ready for the gear. I was going to use saw horses, but they seemed to wobbly to rest the
fuselage on, so I made up the supports shown. They are very sturdy, and were very fast and
easy to make.
My outboard wear plates extend underneath
the skin that comes installed on the quickbuild kits. I'll have to drill a hole in the
skin so I can drill that 3/8 hole in the wear plate. The gear intersection fairing will
cover the hole up.
This is the fuse with the gear clamped in
place and aligned, but it turns out this method wouldn't work for me. I still don't know
why, but I had an obvious "toe out". After consulting with a tech counciler I
used the method shown below.
Two very straight squares were used (any
straightedge would work, this is what I had on hand). The object is to have a nuetral
track, with the gear legs parallel and both the same distance from the tailwheel. By
measureing between the squares at the front and rear, and measuring from the strings to
the tailwheel, I got the gear on straight. Make sure you use good, sharp bits to drill
them, that steel is tough! I used brad point bits, similar to the "bullet" bits.
My Bart Lalonde IO-360 B1B. 10.1:1 pistons,
new cylinders, Lightspeed Ignition and Slick Mag, Bendix FI. 