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Builder's Tips I'll add things to this as I go along. Right now it will be text only to save space until I can get some more webspace. I'll add pictures later on. If you would like to submit a tip, please email it to me along with a picture if possible.
Click above, as this deserves it's own page.
Filling unwanted holes I read this on the RV list a few months ago, and had to use it recently. I don't remember who originally submitted it. If you accidentally drill an unwanted hole in a skin or some other place where the damage is only cosmetic, it is possible to fill it as long as the hole is not too large. Drill the hole out to the closest rivet size, and slightly countersink the hidden side of the hole with a deburring tool. The side that will show need only be deburred. Next, cut the head off of a similar sized rivet and throw it out. Using a belt sander or grinding wheel, holding the rivet in a pair of pliers, grind the rivet shank so that it is about 1/16" longer then the thickness of the skin you are filling the hole in. Place the skin on a backrivet plate, hidden side up. Now, using very low pressure (20PSI or less), use a rivet gun with a backrivet set to gently tap the rivet in the hole. If you are careful, the rivet will expand to fill the hole, and will remain flush with the skin on the backrivet plate side. The hidden side may have a slight shop head to it, and this can be ground off if you prefer. The fix will be invisible once painted over, and is very strong. I couldn't knock one out with a centerpunch and hammer. Practice on some scrap first.
Setting a rivet in an oversized or oblong hole I got this tip from Frank Vanderhulst. He has a great page full of tips. Check him out in my Links section. If you make a hole slightly oversized or oblong, you don't always have to drill it out to the next larger sized rivet. It is possible to get a rivet to fit the hole if you are careful. First, take a rivet that is slightly longer then was specified for the hole. Set it in a hand squeezer and squeeze it down slightly. The rivet will get fatter, and should fit the hole. If it bends over, discard it and use another.
Installing a platenut Installing platenuts
can be frustrating and time consuming. Many people make or buy jigs to speed up the
process, but it is still very easy to install them without one. Start out by drilling the appropriate sized hole for the fastener you are going to use. Next, take the platenut and set it on top of the hole, and screw the bolt through the bottom of the hole into the platenut. This centers the platenut on the hole, and ensures that it stays centered. Use a sideclamp if possible to hold one lug, while you drill the other. Install a cleco in the lug you just drilled, and drill the 2nd lug. At this point I will ream the fastener hole out 1 or 2 drill bit sizes so the fastener goes in easier. For example, I use a #19 bit to install a #21 platenut. Special rivets are available that have slightly smaller heads, (MS1097) so you don't have to countersink them so much in thin material when riveting the platenut. Vans now also sells flush head #40 pop rivets that are approved for use with platenuts, and will save you a ton of time getting platenuts installed in tight places.
Slanted squeezer set I've run into a few places where it was very hard to get a squeezer or rivet gun into a corner to set a rivet. For these tight spots I took a flat squeezer set and ground about a 20 degree slope into it. Now, when I have to set a rivet that is close to a flange I can hold the squeezer at a slight angle and still get a flush head on the rivet. This came in very handy while installing the platenuts in the floor of the fuselage. I also have sets with a flat side ground into them, so I can work on narrow angle stock.
Dimpling those hard to reach trailing edges
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Dimpling
in a very tight spot, such as control surface trailing edges, can be a real problem.
Sometimes you can't get a pop-dimpler in there, and your squeezer is way too big. I came
up with a simple solution. I took a male dimple die, and ground the "male" part
a little smaller (ouch!). Then I set it in my "no hole" or "Thin
nosed" squeezer, set the male die in the hole, and used the female die from my
pop-dimple set. It's a little tricky, as you have to hold the female die in place while
you squeeze, but it works well. This works best with a thin nosed yoke, as this will gain
you the most clearance. 